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The Las Vegas obsession with fresh seafood has a sort of “shake your fist at God” connotation—after all, here we are in the middle of the desert, 300 miles from the coast. And yet this city has become famous for its omakase sushi bars, shrimp cocktails as far as the eye can see, and a competing Roman holiday of seafood platters on offer at seemingly every restaurant in town. I adore a seafood platter, let it be known, and will almost always try to nudge my dining guests toward splitting one. And so please take me seriously when I tell you that perhaps the greatest seafood platter of my entire life was served to me at Pisces, Chef Martin Heierling’s over-the-top seafood restaurant at the Wynn. You can order other things here: the pastas are quite good (lobster spaghetti, black truffle tagliatelle), as well as the bluefin tuna wellington and the salt-baked loup de mer, which arrived to town just as you did fresh from the Mediterranean. But oh my God, the seafood platters; they arrive fuming with puffs of dry ice and loaded with fresh seafood, arrayed like living edible works of art, and include creative ceviches and tartare presentations as well as glowing Oishii shrimp of staggering size and quality. In a city with an embarrassment of seafood platter riches, Pisces is the one seafood platter to rule them all.

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